Sewing unit for sewing folded or pre-folded pockets

ABSTRACT

To sew on pockets to be folded over or prefolded pockets as desired, a sewing unit can be equipped or retrofitted in a simple manner with holding and folding means ( 28, 31 ) for the pockets to be folded over or with support and holding means ( 33, 34; 36, 37 ) for prefolded pockets.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention pertains to a sewing unit according for sewingpockets folded over in the edge area on a fabric part with a said sewingmachine, a guide for moving a fabric holder from a feeding area to asewing machine, a device for raising and lowering the fabric holder, afirst bracket, which can be moved by a drive device at least between araised position and a lowered position, a second bracket, which can bemoved by a drive device at least between a raised position and a loweredposition as well as between a pushed-forward position and a withdrawnposition, and a control unit with memory.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Two fundamentally different processes for sewing pockets folded over inthe edge area on large-large-area fabric parts have been known, whichmay be, e.g., shirt front parts or jeans. In one process, which isknown, e.g., from German Auslegeschrift DE-AS 1 168 230 (U.S. Pat. No.3,216,383), prefolded pockets are placed on the fabric part and aresubsequently sewn on. A clamp, which receives the pocket and isdisplaceably arranged on a carrying frame for the fabric part, is usedto accurately place the pocket on the fabric part. The prefolding of thepockets is performed here on folding presses which are equipped withreplaceable folding tools adapted to the particular shape and size ofthe pocket. After folding over, the fold of the edge areas is fixed bypressing it under the effect of heat. Since even irregularly foldedareas are now pressed flat to the extent that they will not beparticularly disturbing thereafter, the folding device of folded pressesmay have a comparatively simple design.

In another process, known, e.g., from German Utility Model DE-GM 1 964067 (U.S. Pat. No. 3,528,378) or DE-C1 41 13 131 (U.S. Pat. No.5,211,320), flat pocket cuts are folded over in the edge area by meansof the folding device on a sewing unit having a sewing machine and afolding device and then taken over by the program-controlled fabricholder of the sewing unit and fed to the sewing machine. Such foldingdevices comprise a pressure plate arranged on a first bracket and aplurality of folding slides, which are arranged on a frame likewisearranged on the first bracket and can be moved to and fro by means ofcompressed air cylinders between an inoperative position and a foldingposition. The first bracket can be moved into three different heightpositions, namely, an upper inoperative position, a folding positionlocated under it, and a lower transfer position. A pocket support plateis arranged on a second bracket. The second bracket can be movedessentially into two different height positions, namely, an upperinsertion and folding position corresponding to the middle position ofthe first bracket and a lower pressing position for the folded-over edgesections of the pocket located on the pocket support plate, whichposition corresponds to the lower position of the first bracket. Ifnecessary, the pocket support plate can also be moved into a thirdheight position, in which it floats just above the fabric part, for theaccurate alignment of patterned pockets and fabric parts according tothe pattern.

Since the folded-over pockets are taken over by the fabric holderwithout an intermediate pressing on of the edge areas in this process,the folding-over operation must be carried out particularly accurately,but this contributes to an especially accurate and clean work resultbeing achieved. The folding devices used or integrated in sewing unitsare therefore comparatively more complicated and therefore moreexpensive that the folding devices used on folding presses.

Since the folding devices used to fold over pockets generally comprise alarger number of components adapted to the particular shape and size ofthe pocket, correspondingly adapted, different folding devices must bekept ready for different pocket shapes and sizes and replaced as needed.In the case of frequently changing pocket shapes and pocket sizes, thisleads to a correspondingly great effort in sewing units with integratedfolding device.

SUMMARY AND OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

The basic object of the present invention is to make it possible tochange the pocket shapes and pocket sizes at a low effort during thesewing on of pockets folded over in the edge area.

According to the invention, a sewing unit is provided for sewing pocketsfolded over in the edge area on a fabric part. The sewing unit includesa sewing machine, a fabric holder, and a guide for moving a fabricholder from a feeding area to the sewing machine. A fabric holdermovement arrangement is provided with a device for raising and loweringthe fabric holder, a first bracket, which can be moved by a first drivedevice at least between a raised position and a lowered position and abracket, which can be moved by a second drive device at least between araised position and a lowered position as well as between apushed-forward position and a withdrawn position. A control unit isprovided with a memory device for carrying out a programmed function ofthe different drive devices with integrated stop and intermediate startfunctions. A holder is provided formed by one of a pocket support plateassociated with a folding device for the processing of pockets to befolded over and by an insertion frame in combination with a pocketpressure plate for the processing of prefolded pockets, said holderbeing provided at the brackets. A plurality of control programsassociated with various processing variants are stored in the memorymeans of the control device and can be called up as needed. Theprocessing varianets may be coordinated with the holder employed.

Due to the measure of arranging, as is known, either holding and foldingmeans for carrying out a folding-over operation or support and holdingmeans for, e.g., pockets prefolded on a folding press at the two movablebrackets of a sewing unit or of providing such support and holding meansdirectly at the fabric holder and of calling up the correct controlprogram from the data memory of the control, the sewing unit can bechanged over from one mode of operation to the other, i.e., from theprocessing of pockets to be folded over to the processing of prefoldedpockets, without an appreciable effort. It is thus made possible thatthe expensive holding and folding means used for folding over on thesewing unit continue to be reserved for the processing of pocketsgenerated in large numbers and/or for obtaining an especially accuratefolding result, whereas in the case of frequent changeover betweenpockets produced in small lot sizes, the pockets are processed in theprefolded state, which will then make possible the use of the lessexpensive folding devices for the folding presses and of the simplesupport and holding means at the sewing unit.

Since pocket presses are already available in many, especially smallersewing shops and the comparatively simple folding devices used for thispurpose as well as the likewise simple support and holding means(holder) for the prefolded pockets can be manufactured without anappreciable effort in the sewing shops or workshops located close by andthus on the site, it is thus possible to respond to fashion effects in ashort time by processing prefolded pockets.

Accurate mutual alignment of the pocket and the fabric part can beachieved during the processing of prefolded pockets according to a firstembodiment by the insertion frame being lowered onto the fabric partwith a weak force only or being held in a suspended position just aboveit, as a result of which the fabric part continues to be displaceable,and, furthermore, by the insertion frame either being designed as athin-walled frame or being manufactured from a transparent material toachieve the most unhindered observability possible of the relativepositions of the pocket and the fabric part.

Particularly narrow seam distances from the edge of the pocket can beobtained during the processing of prefolded pockets according to asecond embodiment. This is due to the fact that the holding flap used tohold down the pocket inserted into the recess of the fabric holder doesnot have to hold the pocket at its edge from the outside, as in theother two processing processes and, as a consequence of this, it doesnot have a sewing slot corresponding to the shape and width of the seam,but it holds the pocket at a spaced location from its edge. This makesit possible to form the seam or, in the case of a double seam, the outerseam in cooperation with a holding-down foot moving up and down with therhythm of sewing at the shortest possible distance from the free edge ofthe pocket.

The above-mentioned holding flap at the fabric holder can be broughtinto the closed or hold-down position during the sewing operation eitherby a floating foot arranged at the pressure bar of the sewing machineor, according to claim 6, by an actuating means, e.g., a compressed aircylinder.

The various features of novelty which characterize the invention arepointed out with particularity in the claims annexed to and forming apart of this disclosure. For a better understanding of the invention,its operating advantages and specific objects attained by its uses,reference is made to the accompanying drawings and descriptive matter inwhich preferred embodiments of the invention are illustrated.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a top view of a sewing unit with integrated folding device;

FIG. 2 is a top view of a sewing unit with an insertion frame forprefolded pockets;

FIG. 3 is a top view of a sewing unit in which prefolded pockets can beplaced directly into the fabric holder;

FIG. 4 is a side view of the sewing unit from FIG. 1;

FIG. 5 is a side view of the sewing unit from FIG. 2; and

FIG. 6 is a side view of the sewing unit from FIG. 3.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

Referring to the drawings in particular, the sewing unit used to sew onfolded-over pockets on a fabric part, which is shown in the variousfigures, corresponds to the sewing unit described in detail in DE 42 34968 C1 (U.S. Pat. No. 5,400,728). Therefore, it likewise has a fabricsupport plate 1, a sewing machine 2 and a guide means 3 for a fabricholder 4 or 4 a. A device 5 for raising and lowering the respectivefabric holder 4 and 4 a is associated with the guide device 3.

The sewing unit has a first bracket 6, which is formed by an angle lever9 having two arms 7, 8 and a carrier rod 10, which is fastened to thelonger arm 8 and extends at right angles thereto. The piston rod 11 of acompressed air cylinder 13 arranged at a stationary bracket 12 isarticulated to the short arm 7. The carrier rod 10 can be moved betweena raised position and a lowered position by means of the compressed aircylinder 13. A compressed air cylinder 14, whose longitudinal axisextends essentially at right angles to the plane of the obliquelyextending fabric support plate 1, is fastened to the frame of the sewingunit beneath the arm 8 in a manner not specifically shown. In thewithdrawn state of the piston rod 15, the free end of the piston rod islocated under the lower pivoted position of the arm 8 and it thereforedoes not affect the position of that arm. With the piston rod 15extended, the free end of the piston rod extends into the path ofmovement of the arm 8 and causes this arm and consequently the carrierrod 10 to be held in a position that is just above the above-mentionedlowered position. The compressed air cylinders 13, 14 together form afirst drive device 16.

The sewing unit has a second bracket 17. It contains a hollow arm 18,which is pivotable around the same axis as the angle lever 9. A guiderail 19, which accommodates a carriage 20, is fastened to the arm 18. Acarrier rod 21, which extends at right angles to the arm 18, is fastenedto the carriage 20. A compressed air cylinder 22, whose longitudinalaxis extends essentially at right angles to the plane of the obliquelyextending fabric support plate 1, is fastened to the frame of the sewingunit in a manner not specifically shown. The carrier rod 21 can be movedbetween a raised position and a lowered position by means of thecompressed air cylinder 22, whose piston rod 23 cooperates with theunderside of the arm 18.

A belt cylinder 24, which is known per se and is therefore shown inbroken lines by its piston only and has a carriage-like carrier 25movable along on the underside of the arm 18, is arranged within the arm18 as a linear drive unit. The carrier 25 is rigidly coupled to thecarriage 20 via a connecting rod 26. The carrier rod 21 can be moved bymeans of the belt cylinder 24 between a pushed-forward position and awithdrawn position. The compressed air cylinder 22 and the belt cylinder24 together form a second drive device 27.

The above-described general design of the sewing unit is the same in allthree exemplary embodiments. The differences between the three exemplaryembodiments will be explained below.

Exemplary Embodiment 1

A folding device 28, which is known from the state of the art, e.g.,from DE 41 13 131 C1 (U.S. Pat. No. 5,211,320) and has essentially apressure plate 29 and a plurality of folding slides 30, is used to foldover the edge sections of pockets in the known manner. The foldingdevice is detachably fastened to the carrier rod 10 of the first bracket6 in this exemplary embodiment, which is shown in FIGS. 1 and 4.

A flat pocket support plate 31 is detachably fastened to the carrier rod21 of the second bracket 17. A sewing slot 32 corresponding to thedesired seam shape and seam width is provided in the fabric holder 4.

In FIG. 4, the folding device 28 and the pocket support plate 31 areshown in their respective starting positions, i.e., the folding device28 is in its inoperative position, which corresponds to the upperpivoted position of the arm 8 with the carrier rod 10, and the pocketsupport plate 31 is in the insertion and folding position, the arm 18assuming the upper pivoted position and the carrier rod 21 being in thepushed-forward position.

The corresponding control program is selected from a memory of themachine control in the known manner, which is therefore not described ingreater detail, for carrying out a complete work cycle, which comprisesessentially the folding over of a pocket placed on the pocket supportplate 31, the take-over of the folded pocket by the fabric holder 4, andthe sewing of the pocket on a fabric part.

The function is as follows:

1. The fabric part is positioned manually on the fabric support plate 1under the pocket support plate 31.

2. The pocket is positioned manually on the pocket support plate 31.

3. The processing program is started.

4. The folding device 28 is lowered into the folding position, while thepressure plate 29 comes to lie on the pocket and presses it against thepocket support plate 31.

5. The folding slides 30 are moved into the folding position, as aresult of which they fold over the edge area of the pocket projectingover the edge of the pocket support plate 31.

6. The folding device 28 and the pocket support plate 31 are moved intothe lower position, as a result of which the pocket support plate 31presses the folded-over edge sections of the pocket onto the fabricpart.

7. The folding slides 30 are returned to the inoperative position.

8. The folding device 28 is raised into the inoperative position.

9. The fabric holder 4 is moved in the raised position between thefolding device 28 and the pocket support plate 31.

10. The fabric holder 4 is lowered onto the pocket.

11. The pocket support plate 31 is withdrawn into the inoperativeposition and pivoted upward.

12. The fabric holder 4 is moved with the fabric part and the pocketlying thereon to the sewing machine 2.

13. The pocket is sewn onto the fabric part.

14. The fabric holder 4 is moved into the unloading position and pivotedupward to release the sewn workpiece.

15. The pocket support plate 31 is pushed forward into the startingposition.

The work cycle then ends.

Exemplary Embodiment 2

An insertion frame 33 for prefolded pockets is detachably fastened tothe carrier rod 10 of the first bracket 6 in this exemplary embodiment,which is shown in FIGS. 2 and 5. A flat pocket pressure plate 34 isfastened to the carrier rod 21 of the second bracket 17.

If the pockets to be folded are smaller than the prefolded pockets inthe case of a changeover from the processing of pockets to be foldedover to the processing of prefolded pockets or vice versa, the pocketsupport plate 31 used in conjunction with the folding device 28 can alsobe used as a pocket pressure plate 34 in conjunction with the insertionframe 33. This size limitation is due to the fact that when a pocketprefolded by means of the folding device 28 is taken over by the fabricholder 4, its pressure plate 29 grasps the pocket over its entire areaand thus guarantees a reliable frictional engagement, so that there isno risk of distortion of the pocket during the withdrawal of the pocketsupport plate 31. By contrast, the conditions are different during theprocessing of a prefolded pocket positioned in an insertion frame 33 andfixed by a pocket pressure plate 34. In this case, the fabric holder 4is not lowered onto the pocket, but onto the pocket pressure plate 34during the takeover of the pocket. To prevent the pocket from nowbecoming distorted during the withdrawal of the pocket pressure plate34, a pocket pressure plate 34 that is smaller than the pocket is used,so that an edge strip of the subjacent pocket, which strip can now begrasped by the fabric holder 4, will project.

A suitable control program is again selected for carrying out a completework cycle, which comprises essentially the insertion of a prefoldedpocket into the insertion frame 33, the takeover of the pocket by thefabric holder 4, and the sewing of the pocket onto a fabric part.

The function is as follows:

1. The fabric part is positioned manually on the fabric support plate 1under the insertion frame 33 raised into the inoperative position andthe pocket pressure plate 34, which is likewise raised into theinoperative position and withdrawn.

2. Start of the processing program.

3. The insertion frame 33 is lowered into the insertion position (thiscorresponds to FIG. 5).

4. Stop of the processing program.

5. The prefolded pocket is positioned manually in the insertion frame33.

6. Restart of the processing program.

7. The pocket pressure plate 34 is pushed forward from the inoperativeposition and lowered onto the prefolded pocket.

8. The insertion frame 33 is raised into the inoperative position.

9. The fabric holder 4 is moved in the raised position between theinsertion frame 33 and the pocket pressure plate 34.

10. The fabric holder 4 is lowered onto the pocket pressure plate 34 andthe projecting edge strip of the prefolded pocket.

11. The pocket pressure plate 34 is withdrawn into the inoperativeposition and pivoted upward.

12. The fabric holder 4 is moved with the fabric part and the pocketlying thereon to the sewing machine 2.

13. The pocket is sewn onto the fabric part.

14. The fabric holder 4 is moved into the unloading position and pivotedupward to release the sewn workpiece.

The work cycle then ends.

Exemplary Embodiment 3

The pressure plate 35 of the fabric holder 4 a has a recess 36, whichcorresponds to the shape and the size of the prefolded pocket to be sewnon in this exemplary embodiment, which is shown in FIGS. 3 and 6. Therecess 36 is used as a so-called nest for inserting a prefolded pockethere. A holding flap 37, which is smaller than the recess 36 and can bemoved by means of a compressed air cylinder 38 between an open positionand a closed position, is pivotably mounted on the pressure plate 35. Asewing slot 39 is provided between the edge of the holding flap 37 andthe edge of the recess 36 in the closed position.

Since the prefolded pocket is positioned directly in the fabric holder 4a and directly on the fabric part in this exemplary embodiment and nofolding tools or insertion aids that are to be arranged on the twobrackets 6, 17 are thus needed, the brackets 6, 17 always remain intheir inoperative position in this processing process.

A suitable control program is again selected for carrying out a completework cycle, which comprises essentially the insertion of a prefoldedpocket into the recess 36 of the fabric holder 4 a and the subsequentsewing of the pocket onto the fabric part.

The function is as follows:

1. The fabric part is positioned manually on the fabric support plate 1under the raised fabric holder 4 a.

2. Start of the processing program.

3. The fabric holder 4 a is lowered onto the fabric part (thiscorresponds to FIG. 6).

4. Stop of the processing program.

5. The prefolded pocket is positioned in the recess 36 and nowpositioned on the fabric part with the holding flap 37 in the openposition.

6. Restart of the processing program.

7. The holding flap 37 is pivoted into the closed position.

8. The fabric holder 4 a is moved to the sewing machine 2 with thefabric part and the pocket lying thereon.

9. The pocket is sewn onto the fabric part.

10. The fabric holder 4 a is moved into the unloading station andpivoted upward to release the sewn workpiece.

11. The holding flap 37 is pivoted into the open position.

The work cycle then ends.

The loading or feeding position of the fabric holder 4 a may coincidewith its unloading position in this processing process. Since thisposition may be located at a closely spaced location from the sewingmachine 2, short displacements of the fabric holder can, on the whole,be achieved in this case.

While specific embodiments of the invention have been shown anddescribed in detail to illustrate the application of the principles ofthe invention, it will be understood that the invention may be embodiedotherwise without departing from such principles.

What is claimed is:
 1. A sewing unit for sewing pockets folded over inthe edge area on a fabric part, the unit comprising: a sewing machine; afabric holder; a guide for moving the fabric holder from a feeding areato the sewing machine; a device for raising and lowering the fabricholder; a first drive device; a first bracket, which can be moved bysaid first drive device at least between a raised position and a loweredposition; a second drive device a second bracket, which can be moved bysaid second drive device at least between a raised position and alowered position as well as between a pushed-forward position and awithdrawn position; a control unit with memory for carrying out aprogrammed function of the different drive devices with integrated stopand intermediate start functions; a holder including one of a holderwith folding device for the pockets arranged at the said brackets forprocessing pockets to be folded over and a support and holder for thepockets arranged at the said brackets or at the fabric holder forprocessing prefolded pockets; and a plurality of control programsassociated with various processing variants stored in said memory ofsaid control device to be called up as needed.
 2. A sewing unit inaccordance with claim 1, wherein: for processing pockets to be foldedover said folding device has a pressure plate and a plurality of foldingslides, said folding device being arranged on said first bracket,wherein said first bracket can be moved into three different heightpositions, namely, an inoperative position, a folding position and atransfer position; said pocket support plate is arranged on said secondbracket, said second bracket being moveable into at least two heightpositions, namely, an insertion and folding position corresponding tothe middle position of said first bracket, and a pressing position forthe folded-over pocket edge sections, said pressing positioncorresponding to a lower position of said first bracket, said fabricholder can be moved in the raised position, after raising the firstbracket into the inoperative position, to the pocket support plate andlowered onto the table, said pocket support plate can be pulled out ofthe area of the fabric holder, after lowering the fabric holder, andsubsequently raised into an inoperative position, and said fabric holderwith said pocket placed on the fabric part can be moved to the sewingmachine, after the removal of the pocket support plate.
 3. A sewing unitin accordance with claim 1, wherein: said second bracket is moveableinto an aligning position, which is located just above the pressingposition.
 4. A sewing unit in accordance with claim 1, wherein forprocessing prefolded pockets, the insertion frame for the prefoldedpockets is arranged on the first bracket, the first bracket being ableto be moved into two different height positions, namely, into aninoperative position and an insertion position, the pocket pressureplate, whose dimensions are smaller than the dimensions of the prefoldedpockets, is arranged on said second bracket, the second bracket beingable to be moved into two different height positions, namely, into aninoperative position and a pressing position for the prefolded pockets,which corresponds to the insertion position of the first bracket, afterraising the first bracket into the inoperative position, the fabricholder can be moved in the raised position to the pocket pressure plateand it can be lowered onto the edge area of the pocket projecting overthe pocket pressure plate, after lowering the fabric holder, the pocketpressure plate can be pulled out of the area of the fabric holder andsubsequently raised into an inoperative position, and after removing thepocket pressure plate, the fabric holder can be moved with the pocketplaced on the fabric part to the sewing machine.
 5. A sewing unit inaccordance with claim 2, wherein when changing over from the processingof pockets to be folded over to the processing of prefolded pockets andvice versa, the pocket support plate as well as the pocket pressureplate can be used if the pockets to be folded over are smaller than theprefolded pockets.
 6. A sewing unit in accordance with claim 4, whereinwhen changing over from the processing of pockets to be folded over tothe processing of prefolded pockets and vice versa, the pocket supportplate as well as the pocket pressure plate can be used if the pockets tobe folded over are smaller than the prefolded pockets.
 7. A sewing unitin accordance with claim 1, wherein for processing prefolded pocketssaid first and second brackets remain in the respective inoperativepositions, a recess for receiving the prefolded pockets is contained insaid fabric holder and a holding flap is mounted pivotably on saidfabric holder for the pockets provided in said fabric holder and a feedpoint of said fabric holder can be set at a short distance from saidsewing machine.
 8. A sewing unit in accordance with claim 7, whereinsaid holding flap can be connected to an actuating device.
 9. A sewingprocess for sewing pockets folded over in the edge area on a fabricpart, the unit comprising: providing a sewing unit including a sewingmachine, a fabric holder, a guide for moving the fabric holder from afeeding area to the sewing machine, a device for raising and loweringthe fabric holder, a first drive device, a first bracket, which can bemoved by said first drive device at least between a raised position anda lowered position, a second drive device, a second bracket, which canbe moved by said second drive device at least between a raised positionand a lowered position as well as between a pushed-forward position anda withdrawn position and a control unit with memory for carrying out aprogrammed function of the different drive devices with integrated stopand intermediate start functions; selecting a holder from a pocketfolding over holder including a pocket support plate associated with afolding device, and a prefolded pocket holder including an insertionframe and a pocket pressure plate in; and choosing from a plurality ofcontrol programs associated with the various processing variants storedin the memory means of the control device based on said step ofselecting to process pockets using the pocket folding over holder beforesewing and to process pockets using the prefolded pocket holder beforesewing.
 10. A process in accordance with claim 9, further comprising:folding over pocket parts using a folding device using a pressure plateand a plurality of folding slides, said folding device being arranged onsaid first bracket, wherein said first bracket can be moved into threedifferent height positions, namely, an inoperative position, a foldingposition and a transfer position; arranging said pocket support plate onsaid second bracket, said second bracket being moveable into at leasttwo height positions, namely, an insertion and folding positioncorresponding to the middle position of said first bracket, and apressing position for the folded-over pocket edge sections, saidpressing position corresponding to a lower position of said firstbracket, said fabric holder can be moved in the raised position, afterraising the first bracket into the inoperative position, to the pocketsupport plate and lowered onto the table, said pocket support plate canbe pulled out of the area of the fabric holder, after lowering thefabric holder, and subsequently raised into an inoperative position, andsaid fabric holder with said pocket placed on the fabric part can bemoved to the sewing machine, after the removal of the pocket supportplate.
 11. A process in accordance with claim 9, wherein said secondbracket is moveable into an aligning position, which is located justabove the pressing position.
 12. A process in accordance with claim 9,wherein: for processing prefolded pockets, the insertion frame for theprefolded pockets is arranged on the first bracket, the first bracketbeing able to be moved into two different height positions, namely, intoan inoperative position and an insertion position, the pocket pressureplate, whose dimensions are smaller than the dimensions of the prefoldedpockets, is arranged on said second bracket, the second bracket beingable to be moved into two different height positions, namely, into aninoperative position and a pressing position for the prefolded pockets,which corresponds to the insertion position of the first bracket, afterraising the first bracket into the inoperative position, the fabricholder can be moved in the raised position to the pocket pressure plateand it can be lowered onto the edge area of the pocket projecting overthe pocket pressure plate, after lowering the fabric holder, the pocketpressure plate can be pulled out of the area of the fabric holder andsubsequently raised into an inoperative position, and after removing thepocket pressure plate, the fabric holder can be moved with the pocketplaced on the fabric part to the sewing machine.
 13. A process inaccordance with claim 12, wherein when changing over from the processingof pockets to be folded over to the processing of prefolded pockets andvice versa, the pocket support plate as well as the pocket pressureplate can be used if the pockets to be folded over are smaller than theprefolded pockets.
 14. A process in accordance with claim 9, furthercomprising the steps of: for processing prefolded pockets maintainingsaid first and second brackets in the respective inoperative positions;providing a recess for receiving the prefolded pockets contained in saidfabric holder; mounting a holding flap pivotably on said fabric holderfor the pockets provided in said fabric holder; establishing a feedpoint of said fabric holder set at a short distance from said sewingmachine.
 15. A process in accordance with claim 14, wherein said holdingflap is connected to an actuating device.